Photographs by Alice McCormick.
After seven months in the Portland area, we learned a few things about Mexican food here. In fact, because of the large Mexican-American presence in the neighborhood, a few wags refer to the center of Hillsboro as “Hills-burrito.”
Maybe it’s true I resemble CNN’s food commentator Anthony Bourdain. Is that why Alice calls me a “foodie?” I have stopped at plenty of Mexican restaurants to satisfy a craving for enchiladas, tortillas, tacos accompanied by the usual Spanish rice and refried beans.
Most of these food offerings are so similar – and bland – they seem to be cut from the same cloth. It’s little wonder, therefore, that franchised fast-food places like Taco Bell and Taco del Mar represent Americanized versions from South of the Border that capture a disproportionate share of the Mexican food market.
Mexican restaurants in Hillsboro
Alice and I tried to go upscale with Amelia’s Restaurant in the heart of Hillsboro and at Juan Colorado Mexican Restaurant tucked away in a nondescript shopping center off Hillsboro’s main drag. Amelia’s was diverting with its moles, but again it felt like we ran into “bland city.” Juan Colorado was definitely better, especially with its over-the-top margaritas, but it’s reputed to be a touch pricey by some of the locals.
We hadn’t found anything inspiring us to return in the next day or two, so I began to imagine all Mexican food tasted the same. That’s why I was surprised and delighted by what we found in the town of Newberg, otherwise known as the home of George Fox University, ranked among the top Christian colleges in America by Forbes magazine.
After walking into a place offering American fare, a bartender confessed the limited menu offerings were meant to meet minimum requirements that allow the establishment to call itself a restaurant.
Considering ourselves forewarned, we walked out and explored the offerings on the north side of one-way Oregon Highway 99W, whereupon something caught Alice’s eye.
“Look here,” she exclaimed. “Maybe this will be good.”
A colorful mural was splashed across a stucco building, touting the name Gonzalez Taqueria [taco shop] y Panaderia [bakery]. The artwork certainly stood out, so we wandered in.
A true find in Newberg
Half of the business serves as an ordering counter with a cash register, while a sit-down area is highlighted by Spanish-style arches on spaciously high ceilings. Diners appeared to be mostly of Mexican descent who appeared not so much to consume their food, but rather savor the experience. Hmmmm.
The menu posted offered similar fare – enchiladas, burritos, tamales, chile rellenos, tostados, tacos – to what Mexican food brings to mind, but Gonzalez Taqueria y Panaderia offers 15 different meat choices, including tongue. I was careful, though. I ordered a two-item combination of an enchilada and soft taco, opting for a ground beef and vegetable filler.
The truly bilingual cashier invited us to sit down at a table where a waitperson could eventually bring out our food. It did take longer than expected – about 15 minutes – for our food to arrive because, as we learned later, everything is prepared from scratch.
Good restaurants do not have to be expensive
Upon first bite, I was pleased to mutter, “Bueno!” What an unexpected culinary experience. The vegetables did not disappoint: shaved lettuce and sliced radishes stood out. And the sensation attendant to fine dining – where each bite doesn’t grow old – caused me to smack my lips more than once.
Alice’s bean and rice burrito was larger than expected, but no matter. She became satiated. Our Spanish rice was perfect, and the refried beans were prepared vegetarian-style – and without lard. We ate our fill and didn’t have to worry what the weight scale would report afterward. The combined bill, including two bottled soft drinks containing NO high-fructose corn syrup, totaled under $20.
For good measure, on our way out, we decided to splurge on something from the bakery: a coconut macaroon! Yummy.
While taking turns to share bites from the macaroon, we couldn’t stop remarking about well-prepared homemade Mexican food. Those remarks came only when we could stop chewing on the plentiful coconut in each morsel.
Alice and I heartily recommend patronizing this unpretentious establishment, located at 619 E. First St., Newberg. Even though for us it entails a bit of a drive, I know we will be back. And soon.